Rozome, or wax dyeing, the abbreviated form of roketsu-zome, was
first seen in Japan in the seventh century CE. While wax-resist
textiles are known world wide by the more familiar Indonesian word batik, the ancient form of Japanese rozome may actually
pre-date Indonesian batik. Rozome and batik are similar, since both
use wax and dye to put pattern and image on cloth, but the result
is noticeably different. In batik, wax is applied primarily by a tjanting tool, or wax writing tool, and by tjaps, fabricated metal stamps. Color is added by successive dippings into
dye vats (dip-dyeing). However, in rozome, brushes are used to apply
both wax and dye allowing for fine control, multiple colors and
often bokashi or graduated shading on each piece. While rozome is
an advanced textile technique, many Japanese artists feel that it
is actually based on 17th-century screen and scroll painting. In
Japan some artists use the technique to create fine kimono, but
the majority of contemporary rozome artists produce paintings, scrolls
or screens.
See
the World of Rozome: Wax Resist
Textiles of Japan and Rozome
Masters of Japan (exhibition catalog) for additional information
on the process and history.
—
Betsy Sterling Benjamin |